Wait. What?
You heard it: Towson. Absolutely.
While the county seat of Baltimore is certainly not the only place in Maryland where you can indulge in these Japanese bites of dee-lish, it definitely ranks number one in sheer restaurant quantity—at least 10, maybe more, within a few short blocks.
If you respect the test of time, then give the 22-year veteran Orient Restaurant (319 York Road) a whirl. Technically a Chinese restaurant, the Orient was the first Asian establishment in the Towson area to offer sushi—the brainchild of second-generation owner David Huang’s father.
Try the Phoenix Roll, replete with a delicate shrimp tempura and bits of avocado, or the generously portioned sashimi, flown in fresh daily from Tokyo. (The seaweed salad, however, only works if you truly, truly crave a strong fishy essence.)
Longevity not your acid test? Then schlep just one block north to Kyodai Rotating Sushi Bar (1 W. Pennsylvania Ave.). Think “1920s automat” crossed with the Cheers bar.
Sure, you can order off the menu, and doing so might better guarantee the super-freshness we all look for in good sushi, but who can resist plucking Japanese “tapas” right off a conveyor belt? It’s fun, plain and simple.
The cubed tuna tartare, tucked into a hollowed-out lemon half, is particularly inventive and very pretty. Or you might like the calamari salad, slightly sweet and gingery.
Indecisive types will be happy that the plates hold only half rolls, allowing much sampling and mind-changing. Tally your final bill with your resulting stack of plates, each of which is color-coded and runs $2.50 to $5.95.
What Kyodai lacks in sophistication, owner Tony Yan more than makes up for with his genuinely friendly demeanor. Come once, and chances are next time he really will know your name.
Right across the street, you’ll find San Sushi Too (10 W. Pennsylvania Ave.). This sushi/Thai place (in combination with Thai One On next door) has been a family operation for close to 20 years, with Bruce Sesum as both owner and chef.
One bite of the Terp Roll—shrimp tempura, avocado, and scallions topped with genuine crab imperial, crunchy fried garlic, and a secret-recipe teriyaki sauce—will convince you he can succeed in both positions.
The Sarah Roll, a spicy tuna and roe concoction named after a feisty former employee, is also well worth sampling.
This restaurant feels very mom-and-pop, and it’s not fancy-schmancy. The distinct seaweedy odor upon entry is ever-so-slightly disconcerting at first, but San Sushi Too’s moderate prices and excellent offerings keep its large faction of regulars loyal.
Finally, just a few hundred feet down Pennsylvania, you’ll find Sushi Hana (6 E. Pennsylvania Ave.). Of these four restaurants, the 12-year-old Sushi Hana wins in terms of Japanese décor and an upscale feel.
Its owner, Po Chan, is successfully using creativity to entice diners. Health nuts: Have your sushi made with brown rice, or even no rice (a Ginsu-thin slice of cucumber holds the rainbow roll of yellowtail, salmon, and tuna together).
For burned-out sushi lovers, the Roe on Fire Roll should provoke a sizeable flicker of interest. Shrimp cake, Old Bay-topped crabmeat, and, of course, the ever-present avocado is soaked in 151-proof rum and set afire as it arrives at your table (which is beautifully crafted from woven, shellacked bamboo).
And, certainly, the humorously coined Golden Roll, whose description says, “Serve unto others as you would serve yourself,” deserves a mention.
True, there are plenty more sushi places in the vicinity, but this should get you started. So grab your favorite chopsticks and get rolling on over to Towson to give them all a try!
For more information on all things uncooked and fishy in Towson, contact Baltimore County Tourism at 410-296-4886 or www.visitbacomd.com.
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