by Shannon Morgan

November 4, 2010

Very Victorian story

Mike Morgan

While the other side of the bay is experiencing the season’s first snow, it’s raining here in Berlin. It starts not long after we arrive for the Victorian Christmas Weekend Celebration, each drop falling with a ping on the tin roof outside our window at the Atlantic Hotel.

Everything my husband and I plan to do today—taking a horse-drawn carriage ride, visiting Santa at his outdoor workshop, and watching a blacksmith at work in front of the hotel—is weather permitting.

Our Victorian Saturday is being rained out.

Determined not to let the sogginess derail our Christmasy plans, we decide to go shopping instead.

Dodging raindrops along Main Street, we admire the holiday window displays and enjoy the Christmas carols playing from speakers atop the historic buildings. The music is charmingly grainy, like a 1930s recording, and I feel like we’re on the set of a Frank Capra film.

“Not only does Berlin’s Victorian Christmas take you back in time,” says Michael Day, Berlin’s Main Street manager, “but it has also become a holiday tradition for locals and visitors alike. Young and old love coming to Berlin to get into the festive spirit.”

It’s easy to see why.

After perusing a variety of shops, including Victorian Charm, Toy Town, Bruder Hill, and Ta-Da, we refuel at Rayne’s Reef Luncheonette. My husband orders a cheeseburger, and we watch from our counter seats as the melt-in-your-mouth burger sizzles on the grill in front of us.

I’m tempted to order a homemade milkshake, but the damp, chilly day convinces me to settle for a vanilla Coke instead.

Later in the evening, following more strolling and soaking up of the sights, we dine at Drummer’s Café at the Atlantic Hotel and then head over to the Globe next door for drinks and live music.

Rested and relaxed, we spend Sunday morning at the Annual Christmas Bazaar at the Worcester Preparatory School. Inside the gym is a cheerful gathering of people and holiday booths. Along with admiring the Grinch that Stole Christmas tree, the greenery, and the goodies for sale, we browse the Chinese auction—up-for-raffle items perched alongside takeout boxes used to collect the raffle tickets.

I buy a slice of pumpkin Smith Island Cake to bring home. It doesn’t even make it back to the car.

We end our holiday weekend with a horse-drawn carriage ride, which Worcester County’s tourism director, Lisa Challenger, tells me is a must.

Clearly, it’s popular, too: Several families join us during our wait in line on the front porch of the Atlantic.

When it’s finally our turn, my husband and I huddle in the back of the carriage as the Clydesdales pull us around town. It feels like riding through a holiday train display—minus the trains, of course.

“Berlin provides a picture-perfect setting during the Christmas holidays,” says Angela Reynolds, manager at the Atlantic Hotel.

“Every resident, business owner, and artist is involved in bringing the joy of old-fashioned, small-town living to life.”

And they do it very, very well.

Berlin’s Victorian Christmas Weekend Celebration takes place throughout December, with events held every weekend. For more information, visit www.berlinchamber.org/event-victorian-christmas.

by Shannon Morgan

November 4, 2010

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