by Martha Thomas

June 26, 2010

At Victoria Gastro Pub, the brews are as highfalutin' as the food Martha Thomas

Victoria Gastro Pub

8201 Snowden River Parkway, Columbia, Maryland

(410) 750-1880

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And then there’s the food.

Krywucki’s menu updates classic pub fare for discriminating palates even as it embraces the farm-to-table movement (Mary provides vegetables from the family’s Brookeville farm, and there’s even a tiny onsite herb garden where Bennigan’s shrubbery once grew).

The most popular dish, Randy reports, is the lobster grilled-cheese sandwich, a rich concoction of brie and chunks of Maine lobster on thick slices of challah.

And while black angus and Kobe beef burgers are also plenty popular, there are lots of items that you won’t find on your average pub menu: frog legs, for example, marinated in Belgian ale and served with a curry-chipotle sauce. Or chicken-liver pâté with apricot-ginger chutney.

Even the classic fish-and-chips combo gets a creative twist: Here, the batter contains Allagash White beer, and the dish comes with crab remoulade for dipping.

It turns out, despite the initial confusion over the appellation, that the gastro-pub concept was the answer to the Marriners’ dream.

“Any marketer with something to sell craves an audience to explain their product to,” says Randy. “I don’t care whether it’s widgets or snow cones.”

Indeed, it only takes one visit to Victoria to “get” gastro.

Victoria Gastro Pub is located at 8201 Snowden Parkway in Columbia. For more information, call 410-750-1880 or visit www.victoriagastropub.com.

by Martha Thomas

June 26, 2010

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