by Erica Zamensky

January 1, 2010

Palettie

Kelly Hahn

Chef Lettie Gordon's corner bistro in downtown Boonsboro is for slowly savoring made-from-scratch meals. Erica Zamensky

To truly appreciate Chef Lettie Gordon’s culinary artistry, you must eat at her Boonsboro gourmet bistro, Palettie, as though drinking a fine red wine: Relax and admire the colorful display of fresh ingredients; breathe in the aromas; and relish the sweet and savory flavors as they play on your tongue.

Palettie

1 South Main Street, Boonsboro, Maryland

(301) 432-0500

Click Here

    Dining hastily at Palettie is like guzzling an Italian Barolo as if it were Kool-Aid. For shame.

    As the menu advises, Palettie is not for the impatient, and Lettie has no intention of speeding things up. Uncompromising in quality, the mother of three taps local farms and gardens to stock her kitchen with the freshest, most flavorful ingredients. Aside from butter, olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and assorted spices, packaged goods are notably absent from her shelves.

    A one-woman show at the stove, Lettie prepares her meals from scratch—an approach that breaks from the pre-made, fast-prepped service many restaurants offer as they keep pace with our rushed lifestyles.

    Lettie isn’t playing that game. In fact, she’s out to change it.

    “Eating should be relaxing. A meal is for sitting and talking. It is about celebration and communication,” she says, gesturing with her arms held wide.

    “A meal should be the best part of the day. Take your time. Enjoy it!”

    One of 13 chefs in her family (nine of whom own and cook in restaurants across Italy), Lettie has a self-described “need to feed,” which led her briefly to culinary school, and then to her father’s restaurant, where she cooked alongside him for several years.

    Her understanding of food and flavors was further influenced by her vegetarian mother and many hours spent watching celebrity chef and Food Network star Mario Batali. In June 2008, Lettie opened her corner bistro in downtown Boonsboro. A legion of faithful eaters soon followed.

    “This place is my dream,” says Lettie as she sprinkles bits of purple cabbage and orange carrot on a bright white plate for a striking garnish. “My husband pays the bills...I am here because cooking is a passion.”

    Jazz fills the bistro’s cozy interior, which is a balance of earth-toned décor and lively, vibrant pieces by a local artist. A play on the words “palate” and “palette,” the bistro’s name is an indication of the luscious, sensory-rich dishes created in the kitchen.

    Starting with a foundation of freshness, Lettie layers flavors that meld into an intense combination of taste without losing each individual ingredient’s integrity. Take her mushroom appetizer, for example: A layer of piquant blue cheese crumbled onto chewy ciabatta is grounded by mounds of sautéed mushrooms and parsley and a generous drizzle of olive oil. This simple but lusty dish reminds me of three things: breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

    While all of Lettie’s dishes are inspiring—from the grilled, tender duck breast cooked to a perfect pink and bathed in a warm fruit compote, to the dense and delicious vegetarian cottage-cheese roast—it is her steadfast dedication to using the freshest daily ingredients that creates the most exciting stir: The menu changes daily, and so might the composition of a specific dish.

    To wit: Lettie’s signature Molto Salad, which springs from the plate with the tang of fresh berries and balsamic dressing and audibly crunchy nuts, seeds, and croutons, may contain strawberries one day, blueberries the next; at any given time, pecans may replace walnuts. Similarly, Lettie’s rustic mashed-potato dish, a healthful comfort food, is a rough mash of skin-on potatoes and any combination of cauliflower, root vegetables, or member of the cabbage family.

    While Lettie’s menu may seem like a moving target, she waves off concern over her morphing dishes.

    “I may not be consistent, but I’m consistently good,” she explains with a confident smile.

    by Erica Zamensky

    January 1, 2010

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